Check out W0EB’s new website at www.w0eb.com
Reference
The All-band HF Amateur Radio Transceiver: Just waiting to be modified
SP VU2SPF and Joe VE1BWV have just released the latest version of the TFT Colour Touch Control software.
This software/hardware combination is low cost, uses standard easy to get parts and provides a colour, touch control and physical buttons if you want them.
You will require a TFT (Touch) Display module, an At Mega 2650 arduino board, Si5351 DDS module, a µBITx and a few wires
The result is an all-band rig with a computer controlled Radio Touch Control Colour Display.
Automatic Scanning – up to band edges in both the directions is now added in V2.9bU of software. Scanning finds signals of interest across the band. Two small buttons labeled ‘U’ and ‘D’ scan in up and down from the currently set frequency. Scanning can be stopped by touching the display panel.
CAT Control – the software now has new code to emulate FT817 CAT commands. This provides radio and computer control for digital modes.
User Manual – A new comprehensive user manual has also been added. Constructors have been looking for this for quite a while.
The new version is available on Github at : https://github.com/sprakashb/TFT_TouchScreen_for_uBitx
Information is also available at:
http://vu2spf.blogspot.ca
and
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zkg-IrjV2h4&t=375s
(UBITX ver2.9bu Installation Results)
The list of potential orders for Keys K5BCQ on 3 May is surprisingly high (250+). Email Keys K5BCQ(at)ARRL.net (to keep from overloading this “topic”) and he’ll update the spreadsheet to include or amend your order.
Would you would like to have fixes in your µBITx for the audio pop and the missing AGC issues?
There are now two proven designs to the audio pop and AGC issues from:
Kees K5BCQ is taking orders now for two small PCBs to make it easier for constructors to complete these fixes. The PCBs require the use of surface mount components. They are tiny (about 1″ square) and can easily be mounted in any case. They will be very cheap and available both in the US and DX.
Bought the Banggood case? Want some 3D printed drop in front and back panels so you don’t need to cut out the hole for the display and controls?
Gary AG5TX says:
“I bet some find it hard to stomach buying $27 plastic panels for a $10 plastic case when debating a few bucks differences in micro-controllers.
That said, my building brother, I too get anxious on cutting holes. We don’t know what tools you have, and given the question, assume not a mill or a drill press.
“What I would do is cover the front side of the plastic panel with blue 3M painters tape. Scribe the centerline for the holes directly on the ‘inside the box’ portion of the plastic where it won’t be seen. I use center drills to start the holes (they are cheap), if you don’t have center drills, use a small drill bit. Once the initial undersized holes are cut, flip the piece over and drill from the ‘outside the box’ side so if you get a chip out it won’t be seen. Best to start small and step up to one drill bit less than size. When drilling, secure the plastic panel over a scrap piece of softwood, and make this a “pine board project.” With thin plastic and drilling with hand tools, I find that the final drill bit size is best done by hand. I have an old pcb hand nibbler tool ($10?) for cutting somewhat square holes with patience. Just slightly undercut the rectangle for the LCD with the nibbler, remove the tape and finish out with a bastard file and sand paper. If all goes wrong, you can still try 2 more cases or spend the $27. Also search this forum for good ideas on printing a full face ‘label’ which might cover up the sins of a nonperfect cut. Stain grade or paint grade? My wood working Grandfather taught me very early in life that a coat of paint covers a multitude of sins. Nothing ventured, nothing learned. Maybe someone else has some tips.”
Michael VE3WMB comments:
“I have now used three of the Excelway EF01 cases for rigs with 16 X 2 displays with good success. The ABS enclosure panels are quite easy to work with.
“Just to add a couple of comments to Gary’s suggestions. I have found that drilling corner holes and using a coping saw to cut out the “window” for the display works quite well. As Gary suggests you want to make it undersized by a couple of millimetres. With patience and a nibbler or even an exacto knife and a file you can make a decent looking opening. In all three cases I made
the “window” just large enough to friction fit the display without resorting to using screws to hold it in place and this works fine.
“One other point; I suggest that you mark the position of where you are going to drill holes and then make a small divot (a nail and hammer works fine for this) so that the drill doesn’t wander. Also starting with a small sized drill bit first helps. For larger holes (i.e. for BNC etc) I swear by a stepped drill bit to get the hole to the proper size.
“The key to getting a good result is to plan and carefully mark everything in advance on the back of the panels and then take your time. Remember if an opening is too small you can enlarge it, if it is too big there is not a lot you can do so, measure twice and cut once.”
This is what a laminate cutter looks like.
Nigel G4ZAL did Howard WB2VXW ‘s mod by adding:
The mods to the main board are shown in the photo below.
The power output changes that resulted were as follows:
Nigel says it is a “very worthwhile mod for just 3 components”. This mod is something that all constructors should consider.
Jack W8TEE notes how easy it is to find where Hex files and Assembly files for a compile of an Arduino sketch are placed on your computer, along with some other compile-time information.
First, go to your Preferences dialog (File –> Preferences) and check the compilation check box for the “Show verbose output during:”
Second, compile your program. Do not click the compile/upload icon, only the check mark for compile only. You will see a lot of stuff scroll by just below the IDE’s Source Code Window.
Third, look towards the end of that list of output for YourProgramName.hex. For example, Jack’s test program was:
C:\Users\econjack\AppData\Local\Temp\arduino_build_160543/TestProgram.ino.hex
Fourth, go to the directory and look at the output files. You will see file types:
elf — executable-linkable file, used for a debugger
hex — the flash output file
eep — th eEEPROM outout file
sym — symbol table information
lst — assembler output
The first file is very interesting to look at, as it shows the C code mixed in with its associated assembler output. (You can load the file into any text editor.) For example, which is more efficient: a cascading series of if statements or a switch/case? Write a short test program using both constructs and then look at the assembler output. You find that the switch/case produces a jump table, which is very efficient in terms of speed, but may be less efficient in terms of memory. Even if you don’t know assembler, you’ll get a feel for the answer. Use whichever fits the situation.
If you want to directly load a hex file into an Arduino, you could use an AVR programmer, or XLoader (http://www.hobbytronics.co.uk/arduino-xloader).
If you don’t use a key at all (i.e. you want a phone only µBITx) then this hint from Doug AC9RZ might be useful.
Doug folded over about 5mm of the bottom of each leg of the 4.7k resistor to bulk them up. Then he crimped on molex kk terminals on each leg. He put heat shrink on each leg and then popped the resistor in the digital connector where the wires for pins 2 and 3 previously resided. After double checking with his DVM, the rig was fired up and all was good.
Justin N2TOH suggested that just tack soldering the resistor to the back of the connector was easier, so the wires could be completely removed from the harness.
My BFO was way off after I first tried to calibrate it. I then started over with mine at 996.4 and ended up at 996.7. If yours is a long way off from that then I’ll bet you hear psk at 7074 when in LSB.