KF2510 connectors on the uBITx

The connector type used on the main board of the µBITx and the Raduino are of type KF2510.  These were developed by MOLEX and are of the polarised and locking type with 0.1″ spacing between pins.  They are commonly available  everywhere.  In the US they are available from Tayda and Mouser.  In Australia and New Zealand they are stocked by Jaycar.  If you have time for delivery they can be obtained cheaply on AliExpress and Ebay websites, including in sets in a plastic storage box.

The KF2510 comes with both straight pins (for connectors to a board) and with 90 degree pins.  The 16 pin connector between the Raduino and the main circuit board uses the 90 degree type on the Raduino end, and straight female socket on the main board.

Connecting wires to the female connectors is straight forward.  Line up a section of wire (stripped back by around 1/4″) and use needle nose pliers to crimp the bottom-most crimp section first, and then the top one.   Most of us apply a dab or solder between the crimps to secure the wire firmly to the female pin.

The female pins just push in, but must be oriented correctly in order to be held firmly in the socket.  If they come straight out you are putting them in backwards.  The female pins are easily removed by pressing on the back of the metal pin with a flat-head screwdriver by reaching through the little window  and at the same time pulling on the wire.   Rather than curling up your spare wire connectors, it is better to pull them out of their socket for storage  in the junk box.  They can be reinserted when you want to use the connection again later.

reference

Adding an RF Gain control

Don Cantrell ND6T has posted details of how to add a simple RF Gain Control mod to the uBITx on his website.

Almost any potentiometer, from 1 Kilohm to 5 Kilohm, can be used to add an RF Gain control.  This will make a nice addition to the transceiver. If you have an audio taper pot (logarithmic pot), that’s even better.

Locate the trace (assisted by the photo above). Use a knife ( e.g. X-acto number 5 ) to carefully scrape the coating from the trace and to cut a small 1mm (or so) separation where the connector header will go.  Cut off a section of two pins from some .1” right-angle header stock and use pliers to form the short pins to contact the newly bared copper trace while the plastic portion of the block was flat against the printed circuit board.

Carefully tin the trace where the header pins will connect to it. A bit of alpha cyanoacrylate gel glue will help fix the block in place in a few seconds. Then solder the pins to the board. This makes a very convenient access point, one that can be easily disconnected just as you would the other plugs that connect this board. If you don’t want to use it, just place a standard shorting plug on it and you are back to normal operation. Want to add an AGC circuit? This would be a place to plug it in.

Use small shielded coaxial cable to connect the control to the board. I use common RG-174 type. Tie the shields together at the control end only, not the plug end.

Use a 2-conductor section of female .1” spaced header stock for the plug. I strip the shield on each of the cables back about half an inch at the plug end and bare about an eighth of an inch of center conductor. I slip an inch length of heat shrink tubing over that end of the two cables and slide it back out of the way for the moment. I then solder the bared center conductors to the plug pins, test them, and then cover the plug and cable end with the heat shrink. I apply heat to shrink the tubing, making a nice form-fitting cover and strain relief.

About 26 dB of control is achieved with this arrangement.

 

New uBITx: This is what you should not do!

Berenstain Bear tells the new uBITx owner:

  • Check and recheck every connection.   Wrong connections can result in major damage to your uBITx.
  • Check that you have your power supply wired around the right way.  There is little protection for reverse voltage mistakes on the uBITx withouth modification.
  • Check that you have not inserted the digital connector in the audio connector (or vice-versa).  This WILL damage your uBITx!   Mark these connectors now.
  • Do not power up without a 4.7K pull up resistor to 5v on the CW key pin.  Without this pull up resistor, the uBITx will arbitrarily go into TX.
  • Connect a 50 ohm dummy load, or a well matched antenna to the uBITx before attempting to transmit.  Failure to do will result in finals (IRF510s) that will blow up.
  • Do not touch any settings on the board. Boards are adjusted at the factory for correct operation. Do not adjust driver or bias pots, without having carefully read the instructions.  Over-driving the finals or setting abnormal bias levels can be catastrophic to your IRF510s.  Generally speaking, these controls should not be adjusted and do not require adjustment, even if you have read comments to the contrary on the email list.
  • Ask for help on the IO groups BITX20 list.  Fellow amateur operators are only too happy to provide assistance.

Wind 32AWG onto small toroids

 

Eric KE6US uses big blunt upholstery needles to wind toroids.  Just twist one end of the wire on. Thread it through the toroid, then just let it drop from gravity. It’ll weight the end down while you sort out kinks, etc., then pick up the end and drop it though again. Sometimes I’ll stand while I’m working if the wire is long. It goes very fast once you get a rhythm going.

Reference

Lowering the height of the uBITx

Sajeesh VU3PSZ  felt that the height of his case could be reduced further as there was lots of space to spare.

He soldered a separate connector below the PCB and straightened the leads on the Raduino board so that it plugs in horizontally underneath the main board.   This saves around half an inch in the required height of the enclosure.

Reference #1      Reference #2

Arduino IDE Naming Issue Fix

Yvon NU6I  says: “What bugs me with the Arduino is the lack of proper naming convention. Whatever software I download from the web or github, once it is loaded in the IDE, be it Arduino or UCIDE it always shows as uBitx_20. Looking in the output window doesn’t show the project/file path. Easy to be confused.”

Ron Pfeiffer W2CTX replied with the solution: “In the Arduino IDE, just select  Sketch –> Show Sketch Folder“.  This assumes you gave the folder a sensible name …

Jack, W8TEE says “You can also set the default using File –> Preferences from the menu bar. I usually just create a directory for each project, placed in an appropriate subdirectory.”

One more annoyance solved!

Reference

Optical Rotary Encoders

José CT1KFN asked  about possibly changing out the mechanical rotary encoder for an optical encoder due to quality limitations of the supplied uBITX encoder.    As an example he referenced this one he found this one on ebay.

The responses were clear:   “Using one of these will present challenges for the Arduino Nano.  It can’t keep up with the number of pulses per revolution that an optical encoder like this will generate”.

However, Michael KM4OLT says:

“After I saw the post and responses I was wondering too…  I ran across this article that might help.  If nothing else it helps with managing fast digital writes.

Quadrature Encoder too Fast for Arduino (with Solution)

Reference

 

Damaging your Raduino

A post fromJustin KN4FAW reminds us all that it is VERY VERY EASY to damage your Raduino.

Justin says “So, I assembled my Bitx40 kit, at this point it was just wires laying on my bench. I wired up the function button, tested, everything working great. Accidentally touched the ground from function button (orange wire) to 12v while moving stuff around. Now my LCD only shows squares, and I can not tune the radio.  Am I screwed?”

Answer: Yes.

Watch out for the two orange wires on the two different connectors.    Check and double check your wiring before powering on.

Justin isn’t the only one who has done this.  Several other group members fessed up to doing the same, or similar.   Arduino Nano pins are not tolerant of 12v.  There are many other ways to destroy an Arduino Nano pin.  You can read about 10 ways to destroy an arduino here.   There may be quite a few more ways as well …

Mike Hagen WA6ISP comments:

“I recommend in building these radios that you change all ground wires to Black and all Power (5 or 12V) to Red. Reserve these colors for just 2 purposes. You can use the wires you remove for additions.

“Leave the molex pin on them. I have a lot of spare Brown ones. I can’t stand an Orange wire being B+ (the term for us old Valve guys)! 26AWG stranded works great.  I purchased a bunch of colors at All Electronics. Molex pins can be acquired at Tayda and Mouser.

“You don’t have to be in such a hurry and blow things up. Check your wiring several times. You could even make a connector chart with J numbers and pin numbers with the associated wire color.  Match it up to what is on HF Signals. It may mean you catch a mistake and save a lot of trouble shooting?”

Reference

An annoying fault (solved)

John  VK2ETA raised a request for help on the group list on 24 January after spending over a week trying to figure out an issue he had with his uBITx.

The problem

John built his uBitx around a manpack configuration with an external side mounted heatsink, no connection at the back, and room for an autotuner.  The issue he had was strong audio tones inside and outside the passband on receive, typically up to 15khz.

He attached an audio recording and took some audio spectrum snapshots made by placing the phone’s microphone near the uBitx speaker.  The tones were often near or above the level of the decoded signal which makes them impossible to ignore.  The frequency of the tones did not change significantly with tuning up or down, or going through the menu items except when passing over the “CW Speed” option.

After doing all the normal things you would expect, such as redoing the factory alignment and BFO adjustment several times, nothing changed.  He changed out the power supply (with three alternatives), he checked the voltage on the Radiuno: 5.01VDC, added capacitors from the Radiuno 5V rail to ground (470uF, 0.1uf mica, no change), power supply rail to ground (470uF, no change), and added 1nF between the  casing of the Arduino crystal to ground (which produced a shift in tone, but no reduction in amplitude).  He modified the software where I would shift the frequencies of both the first and second oscillators by the same amount, thereby leaving the received frequency the same. The result was no change in frequency of the annoying tone. So only a BFO frequency change produces a shift in tones.

Needless to say John was right out of ideas and welcomed input from the group.

Group responses

Jerry KE7ER immediately responded:

Your best bet might be to either replace the nano or replace the 16mhz crystal on the nano.  It might be possible to shield and filter the nano sufficiently somehow, but that would be tough.   It could be that HF Signals would consider replacing your Raduino.  You might ask them.   Do you have somebody nearby you could swap out the Raduino with, to see if the problem follows the Raduino?

There were a number of other responses from group members, and other group members had observed similar issues with tones inside the filter passband.

The problem solved

On 2 February 2018, John announced to the group that he had solved the problem:

“I bought a cheap Arduino on eBay and after some struggle I changed the Nano, re-programmed it and all came good. The tones within the passband are gone and the ones outside the passband can be eliminated with a careful choice of BFO frequency.  Also the tuning noises have disappeared.  So it must have been a bad Arduino.

“As an interesting aside, when chasing this issue I changed the first two mixers VFOs thereby changing the alignment between the 45Mhz filter and the 12Mhz one. I noticed that the default values produced a signal around 8dB lower than when “re-aligning” the two passbands.

“If anyone is interested I can share the code for this test (I simply re-assigned the RIT menu item and had an extra variable which was added to the first two VFOs so that the net received frequency stayed the same, but the first IF was shifted correspondingly).

“Please note that I found the removal of the Arduino a challenge and resorted to cutting the edges out of the Arduino board with a Dremel.   I cut the plastic spacer between each pin to be able to de-solder each pin individually.”

“Since I have mounted the display remotely and have space in front of the Raduino, I opted to use female headers so that I can plug/unplug the Arduino, just in case.”

It turns out that Jerry KE7ER’s advice was spot on.   Afterwards he commented:

“Could be that the old arduino had a faulty 16mhz crystal.  But that thing is tiny, swapping in a different crystal would be tough. Could also be that the ATMega382P processor had a faulty oscillator.”

Ashhar Farhan from HF Signals has since commented on this fault:

“Since we noticed these problems, we do check for the presence of these tones. Our pass test includes viewing the audio spectrum at 5v/db, 625 hz per division setting of FFT on rigol. We set the carrier so that the audio passband is inside two cursors at 300 hz and 3000 hz. Then we check for any spurs upto 15 khz that are above the noise floor. If these tests pass, we move to the next test of transmit outputs on 3.5, 7, 14 and 28 mhz. These tests are a part of the firmware being shipped.

“I suspect the 16 mhz crystal must have aged. There are two things you can try. First is go into the bfo settings and move it slightly so the spurs go away. Second is to add some capacitance to the 25 mhz crystal, about 10 pf. There is a third way too, which is to program the si5352 initialization code to enable a different load capacitance on oscillator. I havent tried the third method myself.

“Very often, closed commercial designs tend to ignore or bury design faults. Open source proceeds with acknowledgment and fixing these to make the system better. As the saying goes, given enough eyeballs, all bugs are shallow.”

Reference